Restoring a Log Cabin Kitchen
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Over fifty years have passed since these cabinets were built
in our family's log cabin in Maine. Years of service had left the kitchen in
need of some attention. Because of their history we decided to maintain the
cabinet's design and originality and only give them a little face-lift. (Click
on images to enlarge.)
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The Kitchen Before
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The Restoration Process
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The cabinet doors were made from an interior grade plywood. The shelves and face
boards were built from 1" dimensional pine. The counter top was a red linoleum
that had begun to deteriorate. It also presented a health hazard as a
home for bacteria in a food preparation area.
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We started the project by removing all of the cabinet doors and drawers and
sanding them lightly with 120 grit sandpaper. The purpose of this was to remove
any dirt, oils, and other contaminants. We didn't want to sand back to bare wood
because the paint was solid and would act as a good primer coat.
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We picked out a dark green Formica laminate for the counter tops and had a color
matched paint mixed for the face boards. We decided to use a cream color for the
cabinet doors and paint the face boards with the matching green paint.
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The cabinet hardware was cleaned up and restored with Brasso and Paint Thinner.
Smaller drawer handles were replaced with newer handles that are easier to grip.
The older handles were hard to grip and had started cracking.
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Shelf paper was applied to the interior cabinets and used as wallpaper on the
bare interior cabinet walls. We continued this theme using the shelf paper on the walls
below the cabinets, covering the sink area with Plexiglas to act as a splash
guard.
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Installing The Countertop
The countertop proved to be a little more challenging
than the cabinets. Removing the old countertop surface revealed that the base
was made from rough sawn pine boards. Because the boards were uneven we laid a
layer of 1/4" luan over the entire surface. The luan was nailed in place
every 6' with counter-sunk rink shank nails. It was then trimmed in place with a
router fitted with a straight pilot bit.
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The lauan was then cleaned and prepared for bonding with the laminate. Laminates
like the one we used are often referred to by the trade name
"Formica". These types of laminates are installed using contact
cement. This process involves coating both the bottom of the laminate and the
top of the counter with the contact cement and allowing both surfaces to
dry.
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It may seem strange to allow glue to dry but rest assured the
bond is very strong. Once the two treated surfaces are pressed together they are
permanently bonded. This makes positioning correctly the first time critical.
The trick is to lay a series of wooden dowels, boards, or cut PVC pipes (we used
PVC pipe) on the counter top.
The laminate is then laid on the pipes and
positioned. Once the two parts are lined up the pipes are removed and the parts are
pressed together. A roller is used to ensure the two parts are firmly seated. If you don't have a
roller a block of wood or a rubber mallet can be used. We didn't have a roller
on site so we used a block of wood and elbow grease.
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The trick is to work down the sheet removing the pipes and pressing the parts
into place as you go. We had to work from the wall out but it is best to work
from the center out. Be sure to work from the inside out to prevent trapping air
bubbles in the parts. For more information on how to use laminate visit www.formica.com
or view
their downloadable guide with this link.
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We rough cut our laminate an inch long in all directions and followed up by
trimming the counter with a router fitted with a pilot bit. For the laminate we
used a router bit with a 14 degree bevel to "ease" the edge of the laminate a
little. This can be done any time after you apply the laminate.
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In areas where
the router could not reach we hand trimmed the laminate with a hack saw bade set
to cut on the down stroke. We cleaned up the edges, and further eased the
corners with a router fitted with 60 grit sandpaper. After the laminate was trimmed and sanded we moved the block of wood across the
surface striking it with a hammer to further set the contact cement. After 3-4
hours most bonding will be complete.
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The sink and faucet were then reinstalled with a bead of caulk laid under the
sink. We then followed up with caulking around the sink and against the walls to
prevent water penetration. Caulking can be smoothed with a spoon as detailed in
this tip - Click Here.
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The Kitchen After Restoration
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The entire process was very cost effective and the result were dramatic. Click on
the pictures to the right to view the results. The
kitchen is much brighter and lively.
The costs for materials (paint, laminate,
adhesive, knobs) was only $136. The router and trimming bits ran about
$200 although a router could be rented, borrowed, or a cheaper model purchased.
Questions? Comments? - Email - woodmaster@woodzone.com
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