About This Fence

One of the nicest features of this folding router table is its heavy duty fence. A fence on a router table is not needed for all operations but it makes many jobs a lot safer and easier.

We designed the fence with a large (4") opening to accommodate the largest panel bits available. The faces allow you to narrow the gap around the router bit to reduce the gap.

1) Start by cutting 2 pieces to 3 ½" x 46".  These will form the top half of the fence.

2) Next, cut four pieces to 3 ½" x 21".  These will form the bottom half of the fence.

3) Finally, cut two pieces for the front face to 3" x 22 ¼". Bevel the edges of the face pieces as seen in the picture to the right.

Boards for Fence

Bevel the Face

2) The two 46" pieces are to be glued together.

3) Glue two of the 21" pieces at each end of the 46" pieces so that a 4" gap is left in the center.

Note: The picture to the right shows the assembled fence. White lines are separate pieces.

Click on images
to enlarge

1) While the fence body is drying we can prepare the face of the router fence.

2) The fence is held in place by four ¼" x 5" carriage bolts with wing nuts.

3) Use a forstner bit to drill a hole large enough to conceal the head of the carriage bolt.

Drill two holes in each face;
The first, centered at 6 3/8" in from the beveled end.
The other, 14 ¼" inside from the beveled end.

4) Use a 5/16" Drill bit and drill a hole in the center of the holes you drilled with the forstner bits.

Drilled Face

Fence as Seen
From Bottom

1) After the body has dried, it is time to drill for the bolts that will attach the face to the body.

2) Because we want to be able to slide the face boards to adjust for different router bits, we will need to make slots that are 2 ½" long and 3/8" wide.

Bolts Through Fence

Carriage Bolt
Washer
& Wing Nut

Right Clamp
1) Cut a piece of hardwood to 3"x4 ½"
2) Cut two pieces - 3" wide x 1" long.

Left Clamp
1) Cut a piece of hardwood to 3"x4 ½"
2) Cut two pieces - 3" wide x 2 ½" long.

Glue and clamp the left and right clamp as pictured to the right.

Locking Clamps
(White Lines
Show Separate Pieces)

Click on images
to enlarge.

Once the locking clamps have dried it is time to attach them to the fence. The clamps are held in place by a 6" long carriage bolt and a wing nut. The carriage bold is inserted through a hole that is drilled all of the way through the fence and into the locking clamp. A wing nut and a washer are used to secure the locking clamp to the fence body.

The final step to fitting the locking clamps is to insert the guide pins. The guide pins keep the locking clamps from rotating and causing the fence to slip. The guide pins are made from 3/8" steel and are cut to 1 ½" long. Drill a hole in each of the locking clamps that is slightly smaller than the diameter of your pins. Make sure the hole does not go all of the way through the clamps. After you have drilled the holes squeeze a little epoxy or polyester glue into the hole and tap the pins in place. Next, re-attach the clamps to the fence and mark the place where the guide pins touch the fence. Remove the clamps and drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the pins.

To aid in position and alignment of the router fence we added a "T-Rail" to the right side of the router fence. This rail will help you quickly position the fence parallel to the front of the table.

1) Cut a piece of hardwood 1 ½" x 9"

2)  "Dog-ear" the edges as pictured to the right

3) Secure the T-Rail to the bottom right side of the fence with glue and drywall screws. The rail should be position in 1 ½" from the right edge and fastened so that it is exactly perpendicular to the fence.

The last thing you will need to do to the fence is to thoroughly sand it. You should work to round all of the edges. After all of the parts have been sanded and cleaned you can stain and seal the fence to protect it during use.

Introduction

Table Base

Table Top

Phenolic Insert

Finishing Touches

Table Fence <---- (You are Here!)