Router Table - Finishing Touches

Now that you have the top and the base made it's time to connect them together. The following steps describe how to make and attach the mechanism that will allow the table to fold for storage. If you don't need a folding table you could skip these steps and attach the top to the base using "L Brackets". They are available at most hardware stores.

1) You will need to cut two pieces of hardwood (we used red oak) to 3" x 5" x 1" (actual lumber size).

2) Mortise a box hinge into the end of the other side.

3) Mortise a strap hinge into the end that has the miter cut on it. Mortise it into top side, that is the side that has the LONG end of the miter cut on it.          
Note: When mortising the strap hinge, the mortise should be deep enough to conceal the entire hinge. This way you won't have to mortise the table top through the laminate.

From here on out the hardwood board with the hinges attached will be referred to as the arm mechanism.

Mortising the
Arm Mechanism

Click on images
to enlarge.

1) You will now need to cut two box shaped slots in the back of the top runner. The hole should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the arm mechanism.

2) Attach the box hinge end of the arm mechanism into the slots you just cut into the top runner. Make sure the mechanism can move freely and does not catch on the slot.

The bottom picture to the right shows the arm mechanisms being tested with the front legs folded in.

Arm Mechanism
attached to Base

Both Arms On Base

1) Set the table top in position on the base. Make sure the overhang is even on all sides.

2) Mark the position of both the legs and the arm mechanism onto the bottom of the router table top with a pencil. Flip the entire unit over so that the legs are resting upside down on the table top.

3) Reposition the legs and attach the hinges to the bottom of the router table's top. You will notice in the picture to the right the penciled outline of the arm mechanism. The arm mechanism has been flipped open to expose the hinges so they could be attached to the table top.

1) We will now make pins for the front legs. These pins will help keep the legs open and secured when you are using the table.

2) Cut two pins approximately 3" long from rod stock. We used a common galvanized gutter nail. (To save a little money!)

3) Round the ends on the pins so they will slide easier into the holes we are about to drill. Use a grinder or a belt sander. If you don't have either of these you can use concrete.

4) Drill a hole, slightly bigger than the pins,  in the top of the front legs about 2" deep. Put in a few drops of glue and drive the pins in place.
Note: The hole should not be in the exact center or it will hit the bolts in the leg. We found this out the hard way; see picture to the right.

5) To determine the position of the hole for the top, flip the top down until it rests on the pins and mark the position.

6) Once you have the position marked, drill a hole that is slightly wider than the holes you drilled in the legs. Be careful not to drill through the top.

Pins for Base

Leg With Pin

1) The next step is to cut a hole in the top of the table for the insert. This is accomplished by first marking the positions, cutting a rough hole, smoothing this hole out with a router, and then using a Rabbet bit to create a ledge for the insert.

2) We begin by taking the phenolic insert and positioning it on the top of the router table. You should try to place it in the center, or as close to the center as possible. The exact position of the hole will depend on personal preferences. Also, remember that the arm mechanism and the hinges are below the table top. Please take this into account when positioning your insert. We positioned ours just slightly forward of the exact center of the table.

3) Once you have the insert positioned currently draw a pencil line around it.
Note: Use a Very sharp pencil for the most accurate markings.

4) Next, take a compass and adjust it to the exact width of your Rabbet bit. (See picture to right)

5) Holding a ruler against each of the inset lines, draw a line INSIDE the box with the compass.

You should now have two boxes drawn on your router table top, an inner and an outer box.

Inner Box: The inner box is the boundary line for the hole in the router table. It goes all of the way through the top.

Outer Box: The outer box is the outermost boundary of the Rabbet you will route for the insert. The Rabbet is set to the depth of your insert for a flush fit.

Laying Out the Cut

Click on images
to enlarge.

Measure with Compass

1) Drill a hole just inside (¼ - ½") the INNER line.

2) Use a jig or reciprocating saw to rough cut the center.

Note: As you can see from the bottom picture to the right, the cut does not have to be pretty. We will clean it up with a router in the next step.

Hole Drilled in Top

Hole Cut in Top
(Notice my shoes?)

1) Once you have the inside cut out, clamp a couple of pieces of straight boards to the table top so they line up with the inner most box boundary lines.

2) Use a pattern bit to trim the cut to the edge of the boards. The bearing on the pattern bit will restrict the depth of cut to the edge of the boards. Unless you position guide boards all the way around the edge of the inner box (we didn't) you will want to stop your routing before the end of the guide boards and move them.

3) Move the boards to the opposite corner and rout the other side of the inside box.

1) Using the same router bit you measured earlier, rout a Rabbet around the inside of the hole you just trimmed up.

2) It should be set to the same depth as the thickness of your phenolic insert. In our case, ½".

1) Now that you have the hole for the insert cut and routed you will need to adjust the phenolic insert to fit the hole.

2) Because the router bit cuts in a circular path, the corners of the insert hole are rounded. You could either square off the corners of the hole and leave the insert untouched, or you could round the corners of the insert. We chose to round the corners of the insert.

3) Use a belt sander and round the corners a little at  a time. Test the fit and round again. It doesn't take too long before the insert will drop into the slot flush with the table top.

Testing the Fit

A Perfect Fit

Introduction

Table Base

Table Top

Phenolic Insert

Finishing Touches <---- (You are Here!)

Table Fence

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