Router Table Top

The top of our router table is made from two pieces of  ¾" plywood, edged by a 1 ½" strip of oak, and covered on both sides by a layer of Formica plastic laminate. This may seem like a rather complex top for a router table but the design is based on some basic logic. First, the top needs to be heavy to dampen the vibrations generated by the router. The two layers of plywood accomplish this. Second, the layer of Formica on the top provides a smoother surface. Third, the layer on the bottom helps prevent warping by equalizing the moisture loss from each side. Fourth, the oak edge strip makes the table more attractive and helps to equalize moisture loss from the edges.

Router Table Top
Table Composition

The first step is to cut two pieces of  ¾" plywood to a size of 22" x 38". (The finished top will measure 23 ½" x 39 ½") It is best to use plywood that is heavy, smooth, and as flat as possible. We used a type of plywood called "Para-Ply" at Home Depot that is as strong and stable as furniture grade plywood and heavier than particleboard!

Glue the two pieces of plywood together and allow them to dry. If the pieces have a slight warp; glue them together so that the warps are opposite and counteract each other.

Cut two pieces of red oak (or similar hardwood) - ¾" x 1 ½" x 22"

Cut another two pieces of red oak – ¾" x 1 ½" x 39 ½"

Glue the 39 ½" pieces to the front and back edges of the table top; the 22" pieces will be glued to the opposite sides.

Gluing the Trim

After the edge molding has dried, make sure it is level with the plywood on both the top and bottom. The molding must be even with the top and bottom or the laminate will have a rolling surface at the edges. Fill any larger voids and cracks in the plywood with wood putty. Use denatured alcohol to clean the surface and prepare it for the contact cement we will apply in the next step.

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Using contact cement, glue the laminate in place. (Follow the direction on the manufacturer’s can.)

The gluing process is usually done as follows:

1) Clean the surface. (See Step 4 "Level the Edges" above)

2) Brush the contact cement onto both the plywood and the laminate.

3) Allow contact cement to dry on both pieces. It should change to an aqua shade and be dry to the touch.

4) Press the laminate and plywood together. – see tip below (Use a roller to ensure all air pockets have been flattened.)

Tip: When the laminate and the plywood are pressed together they will bond instantly. For this reason, you must be sure that they are aligned correctly. The easiest way to ensure that they are properly aligned is to use standoff strips or "stickers". Place a number of dowels or thin strips of wood over the plywood. Then place the laminate on top of the sticks. This will allow you to position the laminate. Once you have it in position, remove the center strip and press the laminate down to the plywood. The laminate should bond instantly to the plywood. Next, work away from the middle removing the strips and pressing the laminate down, until you reach the ends.

Stickers in Place

Rolling the Laminate

Repeat step five and cover the other side with laminate.

The edges of a plastic laminate can be very sharp. For safety reasons they should be smoothed or routed. Using a router with a pilot bit, rout the edges of the tabletop. We used a chamfer bit to form a slight bevel on the edges of our table.

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Introduction

Table Base

Table Top <---- (You are Here!)

Phenolic Insert

Finishing Touches

Table Fence

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